Nick Walton explores Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake on the stunning Aqua Mekong, and discovers a unique aquatic landscape steeped in authenticity and threatened by modernity.
It is a unique scene: an elderly Buddhist monk, shrouded in brilliant crimson robes and flanked by a trio of wide-eyed novices, chants a blessing incantation that resounds across the water. In the floating villages of Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake, nothing is permanent — everything ebbs and flows relentlessly with the movement of the life-bringing waters, including this diminutive floating temple, which rocks back and forth with each pass of the bumblebee-like longtail boats. The chanting complete, passengers of the Aqua Mekong river cruiser board their modern skiffs and, with a final wave, make for the setting sun. It is a magical way to end a day on Cambodia’s Great Lake.
Tonle Sap Lake: A Destination Reborn
Tonle Sap is not a new destination — it has long featured on the backpacker trail, its lively floating villages serving as the perfect day-trip contrast to the temples of Angkor Wat. But the arrival of the Aqua Mekong, a contemporary expeditionary vessel operated by Aqua Expeditions, heralded a new era for both the lake and the Mekong River, along which she cruises on three-, four- and seven-night itineraries between Siem Reap and Saigon.
Sleek, intimate and unashamedly modern, the Aqua Mekong luxury river cruise ship offers a unique marriage of adventure and comfort, presenting travellers with an entirely new way to explore this expansive body of water. And there’s no better time to do it: large-scale hydroelectric projects under construction in northern Cambodia and Laos, scheduled to come online over the next decade, threaten to alter this singular landscape forever.
Why Tonle Sap Lake Is Perfect for Expedition Cruising
Tonle Sap Lake is ideally suited to expeditionary cruising. A vast, dumbbell-shaped body of water, it is a crucial ecosystem and home to over a million people whose lives and livelihoods depend upon the seasonal fluctuation of its waters. During the wet season, when floodwaters from the Himalayas expand Tonle Sap to 12,000 square kilometres — making it one of Asia’s largest freshwater lakes — its floating fishing communities retreat to the lake’s banks.
During the dry season, when we visit, the lake contracts to 2,500 square kilometres, its villages moving en masse to deeper water, and the flow of the Tonle Sap River reverses in a remarkable hydrodynamic phenomenon clearly visible from the ship.
Into the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary
As with Aqua Expeditions’ two vessels on the Amazon, the Aqua Mekong is built around exploring beyond the well-trodden path. Her four skiffs offer access to nature reserves and isolated fishing communities that no other vessel on the lake can reach. This becomes apparent on our first morning as we glide through the still waters of the 31,282-hectare Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary, a core component of the Unesco-recognised Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve.
Sheltering beneath the skiff’s canopy and armed with long lenses and Aqua thermos flasks — one of the company’s many practical sustainability initiatives — my 26 fellow passengers and a team of well-trained guides keep a sharp vigil for migratory birds such as the great egret and Indian shag. Oriental darters parade atop trees slowly dying from their guano, outstretched wings drying in the sun, whilst squadrons of great white pelicans patrol overhead, their impressive wingspans carrying them effortlessly above the flooded landscape.
Beneath one broad, water-wreathed tree, we speak with three former poachers, now working as rangers. The sanctuary is home to numerous endangered species, and hunters who once preyed upon migratory visitors now protect them across 36 ranger stations. Armed with rifles and radios, stationed in tree houses for days at a time, the rangers maintain safe passage through the submerged forests — particularly during the dry season, when bird numbers are at their peak. We scan the trees and their waterlogged bases for the elusive Siamese crocodile.
Cultural Immersion in the Floating Villages
The Tonle Sap itinerary is far from a sedentary cruise. Every morning and afternoon brings inclusive expeditions — some to floating villages by skiff, others on foot through bustling rural settlements.
In the floating village of Kampong Khleang, adults and children alike glide through mirror-still waters in traditional longboats. Using GPS and line of sight, we navigate the flooded forests surrounding Moat Kla, where excited children rush to doorways and wave frantically at what are, for many of them, the first foreign visitors they’ve ever seen.
In the small village of Koh Oknha Tey, we visit the local school, donate stationery, and join in songs with the children. Amongst the palm plantations of Kampong Chhnang, we watch Angkorian pottery techniques demonstrated and sip palm nectar in the shade. This is cultural immersion with creature comforts firmly intact.
Life Aboard the Aqua Mekong
Returning each evening to a rain shower in one of the 20 David Hodkinson-designed suites is no hardship whatsoever. Cocktail hour in the ship’s lounge gives way to the extraordinary cuisine of Michelin-recognised chef David Thompson, whose menus are laced with locally sourced ingredients: Khmer Kampot black pepper, Mekong River catfish and prawns, and fruit from the markets of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Afterwards, many guests while away the evenings on the open-air decks, marvelling at the beauty of the lake as the distant chanting of monks — praying for our safety and for the prosperity of this unique corner of the world — lingers in the warm night air.
Frequently Asked Questions: Cruising the Mekong River
For intrepid travellers looking to cruise the Mekong or to combine a luxury river cruise with visits to the region’s major drawcards, there’s a few things to consider.
What is the best time of year to cruise Tonle Sap Lake?
The dry season (November to March) offers the most rewarding experience, when villages move to deeper water, bird numbers in Prek Toal Sanctuary are at their peak, and conditions on the lake are at their calmest.
How long are cruises on the Mekong River and Tonle Sap Lake?
Most Mekong River cruise lines offers three-, four- and seven-night itineraries, sailing between Siem Reap in Cambodia and Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in Vietnam.
How much does an Aqua Mekong cruise cost?
Cruises start from US$3,000 per person and are fully inclusive of all meals, selected beverages, transfers and excursions.
How many passengers does the Aqua Mekong carry?
The Aqua Mekong accommodates up to 26 passengers across 20 individually designed suites, ensuring an intimate and unhurried experience.
What wildlife can I see on Tonle Sap Lake?
Tonle Sap Lake and the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary are home to remarkable biodiversity, including great egrets, Oriental darters, Indian shags, great white pelicans, and the highly endangered Siamese crocodile.
What is the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary?
Prek Toal is a 31,282-hectare protected bird sanctuary forming part of the Unesco-recognised Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve. It is one of Southeast Asia’s most important habitats for rare and migratory waterbirds.
Can I visit floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake?
Yes. Aqua Expeditions’ daily excursions operated by private skiff include visits to several floating villages, among them Kampong Khleang and Koh Oknha Tey, offering genuine cultural immersion rarely accessible to independent travellers.
Is Tonle Sap Lake under threat?
Yes. Large-scale hydroelectric dam projects under construction in northern Cambodia and Laos pose a significant threat to the lake’s unique hydrodynamic cycle, its ecosystem, and the communities that depend upon it — making now a particularly compelling time to visit.
How does the Aqua Mekong differ from other Mekong river cruises?
Unlike larger, more conventional river cruise ships, the Aqua Mekong carries just 26 passengers and deploys four private skiffs to reach areas — remote nature reserves, isolated fishing communities and flooded forests — that no other vessel on the lake can access.
If you’re contemplating a cruise, check out our guide to the best ultra-luxury cruise lines, the most sustainable cruise lines, the best expedition cruise lines today, great luxury barge cruise experiences, and the new fleet of hotel-branded cruise ships launching this year and the years to come. We also have great comparison guides for Arctic and Antarctic cruises.
